Regular Washing

My regular wash routine consists of:

  • Various pH-neutral snowfoams (Bilt-Hamber currently)
  • Gtechniq Gwash shampoo (using the two-bucket method with grit guards and a microfibre wash mitt with another soft sponge used for dirtier areas (bottom edges)
  • Bilt-Hamber Surfex HD (diluted) for pre-cleaning of dirtier areas (crevices, wheel arches etc). Sprayed and agitated with a soft boar’s hair brush
  • Autoglym tar remover for any spots
  • Wheels are cleaned just using the Gwash and Wheel Woolies brushes
  • Tyres usually dressed with Meguiars product, but recently switched to Gtechniq trim and tyre
  • Gtechniq G6 glass cleaner
  • Gtechniq C2 ceramic sealant
  • Interior is cleaned just with water and microfibres. Any dirtier spots get dilute Bilt-Hamber Surfex HD. Then dusting using a makeup powder brush and vacuum
  • Carpets are vacuumed, then sprayed with dilute Surfex HD, brushed, wiped and vacuumed again. Seats (if needed) get a light spray of dilute Surfex HD and wipe with a damp microfibre
  • There may be other stages sometimes such as claying and the use of Gtechniq W6 iron fallout remover.

More in-depth prep

On a much less frequent basis (months or a year):

  • Gtechniq G4 glass polish and then G1 and G5 glass protectant
  • Gtechniq C4 permanent trim restorer
  • Bilberry wheel cleaner
  • Gtechniq C5 wheel armour
  • It is not possible to use C4 in the engine bay as it would not be possible to degrease adequately. Instead, I occasionally clean with Surfex HD and light water spray (after disconnecting the battery and protecting sensitive areas) followed by using ACF50 (which I have also used for years on my motorcycles and swear by).

I also use other maintenance work as an opportunity to clean and protect normally inaccessible areas. I recently swapped out some headlight bulbs which was a headlight-out job this time. I took the opportunity to clean and protect this area.

Right hand headlight aperture detailing
Right hand headlight aperture detailing

Whenever I remove bolts and screws, I clean these before reinstallation and apply Corrosion Block (made by the makers of ACF50) to the heads (and the threads where permissible taking torque requirements into account).

Wheel hubs get copper grease if a wheel is removed.

Correction/Polishing

I have not performed a full body polish on this Golf as the paintwork was well corrected when I bought it and I have been careful with washing since.

I have a dual-action polisher which I have used on other cars. Somehow we have ended up with a couple of black cars at the moment and one dark blue one.

These are not as forgiving as the Reflex Silver on the Golf. I find the silver looks pretty good even when dirty and then looks fantastic when properly washed.

I have used the DA polisher occasionally on the Golf in select areas (e.g. where someone or something has brushed past and marred the finish slightly).

If there is a mark like this or perhaps some bird lime which has not been removed as quickly as I’d like, I use some combination of the following (in increasing order or aggressiveness):

  • Quick detailer (Meguiars or Bilt-Hamber)
  • Isopropyl alcohol/ distilled water (~50/50)
  • Diluted citric acid
  • Mer (a wax/polish)
  • Menzerna 3500 Super Finish Polish
  • Menzerna 2500 Medium Cut Polish
  • Menzerna 1000 Heavy Cut Compound

I haven’t had to use the heavy cut on the Golf as this is only really needed if fresh paint has been applied.